Northern Xinjiang Loop: Lakes, Mountains & Kazakh Grasslands
Kanas Lake in autumn gold, the wooden village of Hemu, Sayram Lake at 2,070m, and the endless green steppes of the Kazakh herders. This is the Xinjiang you see on postcards.
Route Overview
Northern Xinjiang is a different world from the desert south. Here you find alpine forests, glacier-fed lakes, and rolling grasslands dotted with Kazakh yurts. This loop is the most photogenic route in Xinjiang — especially in late September when the birch forests turn gold. The driving distances are longer than the Silk Road route (roughly 2,000 km total), so 10-12 days is more comfortable than 8.
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Days 1-2: Urumqi → Kanas Lake
Fly into Urumqi (URC). Spend one night, then take a morning flight to Kanas Airport (KJI, 1.5 hrs) or drive 8 hrs from Urumqi. Kanas Lake is a crescent-shaped alpine lake in the Altai Mountains, surrounded by Siberian larch and birch forests. The water shifts colour through the day — turquoise in the morning, deep blue at midday, emerald by afternoon. Take the park shuttle to the Fish-Watching Pavilion (观鱼台) for the panoramic view — 1,068 steps up but worth every one.
Days 3-4: Hemu Village
Hemu Village is 60 km from Kanas but feels like a different century. It is a Tuvan and Kazakh village of wooden cabins in a valley ringed by birch forests. There is no "sight" here — you walk through the village at dawn as smoke rises from chimneys, cross the wooden bridge over the Hemu River, and climb the hillside for the classic view of the village in morning mist. In autumn, the surrounding hillsides are pure gold. In summer, everything is green and wildflowers carpet the meadows.
Days 5-6: Karamay & Ghost City
Drive south from Kanas to Karamay (6-7 hrs). Karamay is an oil town, but the reason to stop here is the Ghost City (鬼城, also called Urho Wind-Erosion Landform) — a landscape of wind-carved sandstone formations that look like ruined castles, pagodas, and animals. Visit at sunset when the low light turns the rocks orange and red. The site has been used as a filming location for Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon.
Days 7-8: Sayram Lake
From Karamay, drive west to Sayram Lake (5-6 hrs) — a massive alpine lake at 2,070m on the northern slope of the Tianshan Mountains. It is the largest and highest alpine lake in Xinjiang, nicknamed "the last tear of the Atlantic" because it is the furthest inland point reached by Atlantic moisture. The lake is surrounded by summer pastures where Kazakh herders graze horses and sheep. In June, the lakeshore explodes with wildflowers.
Days 9-10: Yining & Return
Continue west to Yining (2 hrs from Sayram), the capital of Ili Kazakh Autonomous Prefecture. Yining has a strong Russian influence — visit the Russian Quarter and the Ili River Bridge. In April, the apricot blossoms in the Ili Valley are spectacular. Fly back to Urumqi from Yining Airport (YIN, 1.5 hrs, ~¥600-800) or drive back (7 hrs).
Planning This Route
When to Go
Late Sept-early Oct: Peak autumn foliage. Book everything 2-3 months ahead — Kanas accommodation sells out. June-July: Green grasslands, wildflowers, pleasant temperatures (20-28°C). May & Sept: Shoulder season — good weather, fewer crowds, prices ~30% lower.Winter (Nov-March): Kanas is accessible but buried in snow — beautiful if you are prepared for -20°C and limited services.
Transportation
This route requires a private vehicle. Public transport exists between major towns (Urumqi, Karamay, Yining) but does not serve Kanas or Sayram Lake. Hire a car with driver in Urumqi — rates are ¥800-1,200/day including fuel and driver accommodation. Self-driving is possible but not recommended: road signs in remote areas are often Chinese-only and GPS is unreliable. Your hotel or a local agency (see our contact page) can arrange a driver.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Northern Xinjiang ranges from international hotels in Urumqi ($50-80/ night) to basic wooden guesthouses in Kanas and Hemu ($30-60/night). Yurts at Sayram Lake are the most atmospheric option ($15-25/person). Book Kanas and Hemu at least a month ahead in autumn. In smaller towns, your driver can recommend family-run guesthouses that are not on booking platforms.
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